Marching Through Malaga


I HAD AN UNEXPECTED TREAT today. My friend Sylvia decided to give me a lift into Malaga, a seaport city of half a million on the Mediterranean coast, and a custom tour of the city’s architectural highlights. Once again, common wisdom (“Malaga? Pfff!” — which I had heard more than once) fails to hold up. Picasso’s birthplace is a suitably colorful city, and a pretty one, with romantic 19th and early 20th century buildings on squares fringed with palm trees.


Marble-paved calle Larios is a pedestrianized street lined with cafes and shops, where we stopped first for coffee and churros (fried dough strips, alright!) and then, like the professional travel writers we both are, made a whirlwind circuit of the historic center in a couple of hours.


Malaga has an extraordinary Renaissance cathedral, below, as well as a Roman amphitheater in a very decent state of preservation, topped with a medieval wall in an even better one — things you just don’t see in the USA.


We stopped into the indoor produce market, a 19th century iron shed with a magnificent stained glass wall (below, market hall on the right).


 Below, Picasso’s birthplace on Plaza de la Merced, now offices of the foundation that bears his name.


We looked into a few intriguing restaurants, like El Pimpi, with a plant-filled atrium and wine barrels signed by well-known visitors, below. But that is for another time.


This time, we lunched outdoors at Vino Mio on a quiet square, below.

IMG_5727IMG_5726 IMG_5728

It’s goodbye to Andalucia for now; I’m writing this in Cordoba, an hour north of Malaga by train. Zaragoza’s next. (What’s in Zaragoza? Besides a hotel reservation, damned if I know, but I’ll soon find out.) Though I’ve visited Spain a few times in recent years, mostly on business, I never totally warmed to the country before. With this trip though, I’m definitely getting it.


About cara

I blog (for fun) here at casaCARA, and write (for money) about architecture, interiors, gardens and travel for many national magazines and websites.
This entry was posted in SPAIN, TRAVEL and tagged , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

14 Responses to Marching Through Malaga

  1. Christine Schwartz Hartley says:

    Cara, all this is wonderful!!! I’m so glad you’re doing this and obviously enjoying it!

  2. Irvina Lew says:

    And I thought you loved Seville/Cordoba! It sounds wonderful, enjoy every moment.

  3. cara says:

    Yes, CSH, the pre-trip jitters were just that!

  4. cara says:

    I did, Irvina, I did! That was a great trip, too. It’s the WORK trips that haven’t been quite as great!

  5. Anonymous says:

    I signed onto my email, and there was your latest blog post. I couldn’t wait to read it. I am SO enjoying your trip!

  6. literarybrooklyn says:

    It all looks divine, especially the food!

  7. jetsetmodern says:

    Hi Cara,
    I’m happy to hear you’re enjoying your journey through Spain. I sure would like to return someday! Hearing you’re going to Zaragoza remindse of the delicious goat tacos and homemade tortillas at Birrieria Zaragoza in Chicago. I assume it’s gastronomy which originated there in Spain. Anyway I’m sure you’ll find tasty food there. Enjoy!

  8. Ada says:

    Fried dough! I love fried dough. Actually I loved fried anything.

  9. FH says:

    I feel like I’m with you. Thanks for the wonderfully evocative descriptions. I love Spain and everything about it… So glad you are finally “getting it.” I believe Zaragoza has the oldest university in the country? I’m too lazy to google it but If I’m correct, I’m sure we’ll hear about it in your net posting. ¡Que te diviertes!

  10. Wendy says:

    Cara – What fabulous travels you’re having! looks like there are many more veggie options than when I was there oh so many years ago. Vegetarian back then meant they’d help you pick out the sausage from your pasta sauce after it was all cooked together. Anyhow, my best friends and daughter from Colorado recently settled in Barcelona for 2 years – let me know if you’d like to look them up!

  11. Great blog of a few hours wandering Malaga with you 2. Un beso.

  12. Astor C says:

    There’s a Baedecker in here somewhere…

  13. votre-cousin-pamela says:


  14. Stacie Sinder says:

    . . . and i still can’t get over the fact that there’s not a speck of garbage anywhere!

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