YESTERDAY WE WANDERED; today we walked. And walked. After a long-anticipated breakfast of croissants and cafe au lait at a sidewalk cafe on the Rue de Buci, we set off in the direction of the Musee Rodin to see its garden, below.
Above: Paul, a tea room and patisserie on the Rue de Buci
Our timing was just right. Roses are the main event there, and we found them in full and fragrant bloom, setting off the towering topiaries and Rodin’s muscular bronzes.
We headed across the Seine on the statue-bedecked Pont Alexandre, above, passing Louis XIV’s Les Invalides on the Left Bank and the iron-domed Grand Palais, an exhibition hall, on the Right. All the gilding and glittering was more than I could take in. To get one’s head around the history and architecture would require some serious study, or at least a proper guidebook. We strode past it all on the way to L’Orangerie to see Monet’s monumental Water Lilies and a much-easier-to-relate-to collection of Impressionist and post-Impressionist works on the lower level.
Place de la Concorde, above, a glorified traffic circle, with the Parthenon-like Madeleine in the background
Catnapping in the Tuileries
Lunch was Salad Nicoise at an outdoor cafe in the Tuileries; then we forged on to see the under-appreciated formal garden inside the Palais Royal, below, with its shady allees and, once again, the roses in their moment of glory.
A bit of shopping was in order, so we took back streets toward L’Opera, below, and spent an hour in Galeries Lafayette, the Art Nouveau department store.
The store’s atrium, above, is crowned with a massive span of decorative stained glass. We rendezvoused on the roof terrace, below, which has a spectacular view of low-lying Paris.
The user-friendly Metro spirited us back to St Germain, where we had our best meal so far, below, at Restaurant Au 35 on Rue Jacob.
None of this was really planned, I might add. We just started walking in the morning and that’s how things unfolded. The weather was probably the main determining factor. It was too beautiful a day to spend indoors, even looking at great art.